Luvanis, a private investment company that focuses on high-end brand revivals, is confident it has all the right ingredients in place to resurrect the storied label — which was founded in 1948 by New York power couple Herbert and Beth Levine. With a focus on innovation, function and whimsy, the Levines built one of the most iconic brands in the industry before they closed it in 1975. (The label was briefly reintroduced in 2008 by Dennis and Lynne Comeau.)

The brand’s buzzed-about relaunch is being spearheaded by Arnaud de Lummen, the founder and managing director of Luvanis, and Herbert Levine creative director Trevor Houston — who has cemented his place in the New York shoe scene as the designer behind hit shoes for Khaite and The Row.

After studying menswear at Parsons, Houston got his start in 2011 as an intern in collection shoes at Marc Jacobs under then-design director Irene Chung, an experience that would change the course of his career. “Marc was obsessed with footwear. I learned everything so quickly. It really set off my interest in shoes and obsession with structure and architecture and function,” said the designer, who has also worked at Coach.

An avid collector and vintage connoisseur who has amassed 400 pairs of shoes in his New York apartment, Houston said he has long admired the Levines and their place in shoe history. Fittingly, the Luvanis team contacted the designer after reading about his extensive footwear archive.

An Enduring Brand Story

Beth Levine, affectionally known as the “First Lady of Shoes,” was a pioneering female designer, making fashion boots a must-have in the 1960s and inventing boundary-breaking sculptural heels, the stocking boot and the “Spring-o-lator” mule.

Among Levine’s famed looks were the pair of white stiletto boots she designed for Nancy Sinatra’s “These Boots Are Made For Walkin’” video. She also crafted shoes Barbra Streisand wore in the movie “Funny Girl.” Over the years, the designer’s looks were also worn by other Hollywood icons, including Marilyn Monroe, Ava Gardner and Lauren Bacall, as well as four First Ladies, including Jackie Kennedy.

While it’s now been five decades since the late couple closed the business, Beth’s designs have been a mainstay in collections and exhibitions at the Metropolitan Museum of Art and Bata Shoe Museum, among other institutions. In fact, the designer’s 1966 “Barefoot in the Grass” sandal — which features astroturf on the insole and a transparent vinyl upper — was the only shoe on display in “Sleeping Beauties: Reawakening Fashion,” the Met Costume Institute’s spring ’24 exhibition.

De Lummen — who reintroduced Vionnet’s ready-to-wear in 2006, relaunched 19th-century trunk-maker Moynat and is now reviving French brand Rose Bertin, among other projects — said he discovered that Herbert Levine was the Met Museum’s second most-collected shoe label, after Roger Vivier.

But historical relevance isn’t enough, said the executive. He believes Herbert Levine is primed for a comeback because the brand’s styles continue to inform contemporary shoe designs. Manolo Blahnik, Christian Louboutin and Stuart Weitzman have all cited Levine as an inspiration.

The Road to Revival

Herbert Levine’s rebirth under Luvanis has been 15 years in the making. De Lummen’s first order of business was to acquire the brand’s intellectual property in every market around the world. Then, it was about getting the right people and strategy in place. “Heritage brands can be damaged by multiple revivals. It’s having all the planets aligned to reintroduce something that is going to be relevant for the long term,” said de Lummen.

So what is relevant for women now? “It’s not about this crazy high heel. It’s actually about shoes that are worn and can go with a lot of things,” Houston said. “This is a fresh take on footwear for women.”

Houston is confident that his designs — a full shoe wardrobe ranging from boots to loafers to pumps — embody the founders’ original vision for the brand: “Refined and elegant, but with an edge,” he said. “A lot of these lasts are from the archives and they were modernized. I worked on them and got them to be wider in certain parts, or shorter or longer where they need to be, to make sure the feet fit well in them.”

All of the Levines’ original shoes were produced in their New York factory, and the new team admitted it was a challenge to find that same level of intricate craftsmanship. “You have to really know the details to get the quality perfect,” said Houston, who has been working on his debut for the past two years with a factory in the Marche shoemaking region of Italy.

During a preview of the collection during New York Fashion Week, it was clear that the designer has immersed himself in every aspect of Beth Levine’s life and work. For example, Levine was deeply inspired by painter Milton Avery, also one of Houston’s favorite artists.

Levine loved to play with materials and detailing — and that influence is evident across Houston’s styles. The designer often referenced Helene Verin’s 2009 book, “Beth Levine Shoes,” while dreaming up the new collection, which launches at retail this summer and is being sold through Massimo Bonini.

Among Houston’s favorite styles is his “grandma slipper,” fashioned in a poppy green hue and embellished with a martini pin. A ballet pump with a kitten heel made of soft PVC material comes with bubble wrap, “almost like a rain shoe.” A deep V vamp shape modernizes a classic pump, reflecting the designer’s emphasis on craftsmanship and fit.

Like the brand’s founders, Houston is also keeping function top of mind, with the highest heel in the collection standing at 95 millimeters, or just under 4 inches in height.

And one of the most touching references to the couple’s partnership comes to life on the insole of a pair of pumps. On one shoe, there’s the Beth Levine moniker; on the other, it’s Herbert Levine.. “I wanted to bring them back together,” Houston said. (During the Levines’ era, shoe brands were typically only named after men.)

The couple’s lasting impact on the industry — and their love for New York — will be a crucial part of the storytelling as the brand embarks on a new chapter for the modern era. Houston believes there’s big potential at a time when the industry has been lacking newness.

“There’s definitely a space for something like this, in the American market especially,’ he said. “Everything I make, I try to inject joy into it. You want people to be emotional about product. It needs to speak to them, and they need to remember it.”

Kurt Geiger’s private equity parent Cinven was first said to be considering a sale of the company back in 2023.

“With this acquisition, we are excited to add Kurt Geiger London, a brand that has exhibited exceptional growth over the last several years. [Its] unique brand image, high-quality and statement-making styles and compelling value proposition have driven success across multiple product categories, led by handbags,” said Edward Rosenfeld, chairman and chief executive officer of Steve Madden in a statement.

The CEO lauded the Kurt Geiger brand’s international following, focus on accessories and emphasis on direct-to-consumer channels, noting the business was complementary to Madden’s existing portfolio. (The deal will close in the second quarter, pending regulatory approval.)

Cinven bought Kurt Geiger back in 2015 in a deal with Sycamore valued at $372 million. Since then the company has focused on building its namesake brand, with major expansion in the U.S. and other markets.

“While we’ve delivered remarkable growth in recent years, we believe we are in the early stages of our growth journey, with significant expansion opportunities available to us,” said Kurt Geiger CEO Neil Clifford. “With its global infrastructure and proven track record of supporting and growing its brands, we believe Steve Madden is the right strategic partner to help us reach our potential.”

The companies said in a statement that Kurt Geiger’s revenue was $400 million pounds for the 12 months ended Feb. 1. In addition to its core brand, the company operates department store concessions at department stores across the U.K., including Harrods and Selfridges.

Steve Madden, founder and creative and design chief of his eponymous firm, marveled at how far his company has come in the past 30 years.

“When I started this company in 1990, I never dreamed we would be where we are today. Owning Dolce Vita, Betsey Johnson and ATM Collection, and now being able to partner with Kurt Geiger, is one of the great accomplishments of my career. The brand is doing better and better every year, and the opportunity to collaborate with them is thrilling. I get goosebumps just thinking about it,” he said.

What’s an example of how you and New Balance are standing up for your female colleagues?
Tracy Knauer: New Balance is committed to fostering the development and networking opportunities for our female colleagues through various initiatives. Our dedicated Associate Resource Group (ARG), “She Got Now,” is spearheaded by a senior female leader and focuses on creating annual programming and curriculum designed to support women in networking, professional development, career pathing, coaching, and overall support. In addition to our internal efforts, we also offer external opportunities for our associates to participate in programs such as Women’s Unlimited Inc. It’s dedicated to developing high-potential women who aim to excel in their respective industries.

What does the industry need to do to ensure women are rising to top positions — and staying there?
TK: The industry must remain steadfast in prioritizing networking and development opportunities for the next generation of female leaders. It is essential for these leaders to gain exposure, expand their knowledge, and cultivate their professional networks to ensure strong, supportive and empowering career opportunities.

Myth or reality: Women don’t do enough to support each other.
TK: In my experience this is a myth.  At New Balance, the presence of female mentors and supportive colleagues has clearly made a significant impact on my professional journey. It’s crucial to have accessible women mentors and peers to turn to for support and advice. This not only fosters personal growth but also strengthens the overall community within the workplace. There is tremendous value in creating an environment where women can connect, share experiences, and uplift each other.

What is the biggest way you think we can empower the next generation of female leaders in Gen Z, Gen Alpha and beyond? 
TK: To continue fostering a supportive and dynamic environment, it is essential to create opportunities for active mentorship, networking, and development programs. Leaders should also champion diversity in leadership roles and strive to cultivate an inclusive workplace culture. By doing so, we can ensure that all employees have the resources and support they need to thrive and succeed.

A version of this article appeared in the Feb. 3 print issue of FN, as part of the “Women Who Rock” special section. On Feb. 4, FN and Two Ten Footwear Foundation honored these women at the annual live event in New York City.

The senior vice president of global public relations and communications relishes her role overseeing storytelling around Authentic’s more than 50 labels — from the big M&A deals to the bold partnerships.

Behind the scenes, she’s equally passionate about supporting the women around her. “We advocate for women when they aren’t in the room. Talking about their strengths and accomplishments lifts the pressure of feeling like they need to defend their qualifications when sharing their ideas,” said Steinberg. “When they step into the room, they are met with respect, so the focus can be on the work.”

As the mom of a toddler, Steinberg understands firsthand the importance of cultivating a supportive workplace, and she’s calling on the industry to do more for women as they raise their families. 
“The industry needs to prioritize work-life integration throughout our careers, and especially as we balance family responsibilities,” Steinberg said. “This means extending support far beyond the early months of parenthood, offering it through the entire 18 years of raising a family. True progress requires providing men the space to share the burden equally, allowing women equal opportunity to succeed.”

When it comes to women supporting other women in their professional endeavors, Steinberg said it’s not always easy to uplift others “when you’re still fighting for your own footing.” 

She said, “In the workplace, women often face a hierarchy of needs — where their basic needs, like equal pay and respect, aren’t fully met. This is why some can support others and some are just trying to survive. When women are given the space to thrive, they can support one another.”

As she thinks about true leadership, Steinberg observed that it’s about making space for others. 

“When you get to the table, pull up a second chair. It’s no longer enough to want just one seat, we need to make space for others. If we expect more from our leaders, future generations will too,” she said.

A version of this article appeared in the Feb. 3 print issue of FN, as part of the “Women Who Rock” special section. On Feb. 4, FN and Two Ten Footwear Foundation will honor these women at the annual live event in New York City.

The St. Louis-based company revealed to FN exclusively that Brian Costello has joined Famous Footwear as chief merchandising officer. He will oversee all buying and merchandising, including women’s, men’s and kids’ athletic and fashion footwear and accessories, for the brand’s U.S. and Canada stores and e-commerce sites.

“Brian has a long track record of exceptional fashion and footwear industry leadership,” said Mike Edwards, president of Famous Footwear, in a statement. “With expertise in merchandising and planning for both footwear and ready-to-wear, I’m confident he will help drive growth and achieve our ambitions at Famous Footwear.”

Costello has spent nearly 30 years in the department store sector during stints at Nordstrom and Macy’s.

At Nordstrom Rack — where he was most recently vice president and divisional merchandise manager — the executive led all footwear categories, women’s accessories and a variety of ready-to-wear segments. During his time at the Seattle-based retailer, Costello also spearheaded a large segment of the women’s shoe business at Nordstrom and was a key player in the launch of Nordstromrack.com.

“I’m proud to be joining Caleres and Famous Footwear,” said Costello. “As a retailer, many of our best wholesale partners were at Caleres. As a competitor, I always watched and shopped Famous Footwear. I’m honored to be leading such a strong merchant organization.”

Costello’s appointment reflects an ongoing strategy by Caleres President and CEO Jay Schmidt to add executive talent in key areas at both Famous and across the broader Caleres portfolio.

In 2024, Andrew Leckie joined Famous Footwear as senior vice president and general merchandise manager. On the brand side, Nancy Bitetto assumed the newly created role of senior vice president of Caleres’ New York brands last fall.

Those moves followed the appointments of Liz Dunn as senior vice president of corporate development and strategic communications and Erica Mackoul as senior vice president of international.

The focus on cultivating talent extends beyond the executive suite. Caleres also made several recent board moves, appointing Molly Langenstein, former CEO & president of Chico’s FAS and Kyle Gendreau, CEO and executive director of Samsonite International S.A.

In 2025, under the theme Women Supporting Women: The New Mandate, FN x Two Ten Women Who Rock will examine the big ways women across the footwear industry can support, empower and elevate their female colleagues — and how to ignite real, meaningful change in the workplace.

The annual event, which takes place on Feb. 4 at 583 Park during FFANY Market Week, will bring together a power-packed lineup of speakers, along with networking and cocktails. It kicks off at 5:30 p.m.

A special panel will feature Laura Davis, Executive Vice President, Designer Brands and President, DSW Designer Shoe Warehouse; Tacey Powers, Executive Vice President & General Merchandise Manager, Shoes & Kids Apparel, Nordstrom; and Kim Waldmann, Global Chief Customer Officer & Senior Vice President, Foot Locker Inc.

The panel will examine some of the burning topics that are top of mind for women in the industry, including the following:

• How to foster an environment of true collaboration — and pitfalls to avoid
• The best ways to stand up for your female colleagues and make sure their voices are heard
• Empowering the next generation of women leaders
• How mentoring looks different now

The event will also feature rising designer Betzábe González, founder and creative director of Betzábe, who will open up about her journey as a Latina designer and founder.

And Two Ten board member Christina Gigante, Vice President of Sales for Skechers USA Inc., will close the evening.

The event is almost sold out, but a few tickets remain. To register, go here or email Trish Reidy at preidy@fairchildfashion.com.

Goldman, who suffered a stroke in 2007, continued to be a constant presence in the family business for many years despite her personal setbacks.

“It is with profound sadness that I share the loss of my beloved wife of 60 years. She was not only my partner in life, but also the mother of our cherished children, Stewart, Lauren, Elise and Alex,” said Bob Goldman, founder and CEO of Cels.

Together, the couple grew the company, which has been a mainstay in the shoe industry for more than five decades. It all started with a great idea, which the Goldmans came up with when Bob was a shoe salesman and Carol was an interior designer.

The couple developed a self-service shoe display system called Modumode, formed Cels and installed the fixtures in Abraham & Strauss. “With Modumode, they sold out 90 percent of the inventory in one week,” Bob told FN in 2017.

As Cels took off, Carol served as the chief marketing officer at Chinese Laundry for 36 years.

“Her talent, creativity and determination were unmatched,” her husband said. “We built a business and a life that was filled with beautiful memories and a bond that words cannot fully capture.”

In a 2017 interview, Stewart, the couple’s son, said Carol’s influence on the company was profound. “She was very involved. She was not a woman who kept her opinions to herself,” he said.

Beyond Carol’s professional achievements, she was the heart of the family. “Her warmth, kindness, and unwavering strength inspired us all,” Bob said. ‘She was my rock, my confidante, and my greatest love. She will be deeply missed, but will live on in the hearts of everyone whose lives she touched.”

In addition to her husband, Carol Goldman is survived by Stewart, Lauren and Alex.

Zendaya, Selena Gomez, Angelina Jolie, Nicole Kidman and more A-listers all perfectly matched their pumps to their dresses in a nod to Old Hollywood glamour.

Louis Vuitton ambassador Zendaya, who was styled by Law Roach of course, was one of the night’s best dressed in a saffron double silk satin column bustier gown from the fashion house, which featured a pleated train.

The star, who often matches her shoes with her dresses, wore satin pumps to complete the look. (Later, the “Challengers” star made a sneaky outfit change, revealing a second sheath dress once she stood up in the ballroom.)

Selena Gomez, in Prada, chose a pair of striking satin pumps, which matched her custom crystal blue satin off-the-shoulder column gown.

Other big names, such as Nicole Kidman and Ariana Grande, also turned to the tried-and-true shoe style for their looks — choosing hues that complemented their dresses. Grande paired her archival pastel yellow gown from Givenchy’s spring couture 1966 collection with nude pumps from Stuart Weitzman.

Kidman, a Balenciaga ambassador, wore cream satin Knife pumps from the brand to pair with her shimmering backless dress. (Kerry Washington and Michelle Yeoh were among the other actresses who wore the Knife pumps.)

Angelina Jolie – who coordinated on the red carpet with daughter Zahara — also made a striking statement in an Alexander McQueen metallic gown with matching pumps.